Sweetheart Pouch Tutorial


Need a quick and sweet gift for your valentine? Look no further, the Sweetheart Pouch is just perfect. It comes together super quick and is a great project for practicing your curves and zipper installation.



Lets get started!

Heres what you’ll need:


1/4 yard main fabric
1/4 yard lining fabric
7″inch zipper (longer works too)
glass head pins
coordinating thread
fabric and paper scissors
thread snips
pencil and paper for making your pattern

First we need to make the heart pattern.

Start by folding your piece of paper along the diagonal of one corner. Since the paper already has a great right angle, we’re going to use it!


Measure and mark 6″ up along the open edge and folded edge.

Create a soft curve to connect the points. Small dash lines are the easiest way to get a fluid curve.


Cut along the curve line while folded to create your heart template.


Using the template, cut out two of your main fabric and two of your lining fabric.


Let’s get sewing!

Place one lining piece of fabric RIGHT SIDE UP (psst.. if you’re using a solid there is no right or wrong side). Align your zipper along one straight edge with the teeth facing up.


Place one piece of your main fabric RIGHT SIDE DOWN, aligning your heart shape.


Note that my zipper pull and stopper are sticking out from the fabric, this will keep them out of the way of our seams.

Pin through all three layers (lining fabric, zipper tape, main fabric) with your pins parallel to the edge and the point of the pin pointing toward the top of the heart. You want your pins pretty much on top of each other. This will keep anything from shifting as you sew.



Using your zipper foot, stitch down the pinned edge, keeping the teeth of the zipper next to the left edge of the presser foot, making sure to backstitch at both ends.


 IMG_3384Keep your presser foot snuggled up close to the teeth!


Trim your threads and press both fabrics away from the zipper.


Next, we’re going to repeat the previous steps to sew the other half of the bag.

Place your second lining piece RIGHT SIDE UP, align the unsewn edge of your zipper to the edge and place your second main piece RIGHT SIDE DOWN.



Your layers should be aligned along the straight edge and the first side sewn should be sticking out about 1/2″ along the curved edge from the new layers you’ve added in.

Pin and sew in the same way as the previous side, don’t forget your backstitching!

Trim your threads and press away from the zipper.


Our next step is SUPER important! Unzip your zipper about 3/4 of the way down. You don’t want it fully unzipped (your pull will be in your way) and you really don’t want it fully zipped (your bag will be stuck inside out!).


Once unzipped, place your main fabric RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER and lining fabric RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.


On either side of the zipper, stack the tape with the teeth pointing toward your main fabric and pin.


Next, pin around all edges with the ball of the pin sticking off the edge (this will make them easy to see and pull out before you sew over them).


Before we start sewing, we need to add a few helpful marks along the bag.

Along the straight edge of your lining, mark about 1″ from the zipper and the curve. This is the section you will NOT sew.


Next, mark 3/8″ down on each heart point. This will be your pivoting point.
To pivot, insert your needle into the fabric at the marked point. Lift your presser foot and rotate the fabric to sew the next direction.  Remember, lower your presser foot before you begin sewing again.


Time to sew, yay!

Sew around your bag using a 3/8″ seam allowance (10mm line), starting at one of your opening marks and ending at the other. Be sure to backstitch at your start and finish.


Trim your threads and the ends of the zipper tape (keep them flush with your fabric).


Clip your curves! Snip into your fabric along the curved edges, being careful not to hit your stitch line. This will give your heart the ease to lay flat when you turn right side out.

Flip your pouch right side out. Run your finger or a point turner along the curved edges to poke everything out, then press.


Turn the unsewn edges in towards the wrong side of the bag, and press. Your previous seam lines will encourage the edges to turn under, yay!


Align your needle as far to the right as it will go. Using the edge of your presser foot, stitch your open edge shut, making sure to backstitch on both ends.

Then, trim your threads, stuff the lining inside the bag, and…. you’re done!!!


Fill it with sweets and gift it to your sweetie!


I’ve made several of these now and there are so many fun embellishments you can add! Think of adding some embroidery, piping or trims to your next one. I love the way the Essex and Mingles combination turned out. Happy Sewing! xo Liz

Tulip Nesting Bowls Tutorial

Need a quick, fun gift you can whip up for the holidays? These nesting bowls are for you! They sew up SO QUICK and can be made in a variety of sizes for anything you need to put in them. They’re great for holding jewelry, cookies, thread, keys…. the list is endless!



Here is what you’ll need:


-1/3 yard of two fabrics (We’re using 2 prints from Valori Wells line Quill)
***non directional works best, unless you don’t mind half the bowl being upside down
-1/3 yard Fusible Fleece
-Coordinating Thread
-Rotary Cutter or Fabric Shears
-Thread Snips
-Glass Head Pins
-Clear Acrylic Ruler
-Point Turner
-Marking Tool (Frixion pens work great for this project)


Let’s start cutting!


You’ll need one piece of each fabric and fusible for each bowl.

Large Bowl:

Fabric A: 12″x12″
Fabric B: 12″x12″
Fusible Fleece: 12″x12″

Small Bowl:

Fabric A: 9″x9″
Fabric B: 9″x9″
Fusible Fleece: 9″x9″


Now lets fuse! Place the glue side (bumpy side) of the fusible to the WRONG side of one fabric. (makes no difference which fabric you choose) Press with a hot iron and lots of steam for about a minute or until fully fused. Repeat this step with your second bowl.



If your fusible stretched while fusing, trim away excess from the edges.



Start with your fused pieces right side facing up. Place it’s unfused pair right side facing down. (you should have right sides of the fabric together) Pin all 4 sides.
**Tip: keep the head of your pins sticking off the edge to make them easy to pull out while sewing



Before we start sewing we need to mark a small opening to turn these cuties right side out. We will be sewing all 4 sides EXCEPT this small bit. A 3 inch opening is perfect for this project. Mark this in the center of one side.  Then, using the edge of your foot as the guide, stitch around your squares, pivoting in the corners. Repeat for the second bowl.



Trim away the bulk from each corner



Then using the opening you left, turn each set right side out. Use your point turner to poke out all the corners. You want those corners crisp and pointy!

Using a hot iron and steam; press each piece nice and flat. Turn under the seam allowance from the opening so it is pointing to the inside and press.



Let’s topstitch! Move your needle over to the right as far as your machine will go. You will still be using the edge of the foot as your guide. Starting just before the opening (to ensure it gets closed), stitch all 4 sides, pivoting in the corners. Add a small backstitch when you overlap the first few stitches.



Now to turn your flat squares into bowls! Starting with your larger bowl, fold the bowl in half so the INSIDE fabric is facing OUT. Measure in, along the fold, 2 inches from the edge. Then using the 45 degree angle on your ruler mark a diagonal line from the 2″ mark to the edge of the bowl. ***Make sure to use a marking tool that can be removed. We are using a Frixion Pen so the marks will iron away. A water or air soluble pen would work well too.





Repeat this step on the other edge. Then unfold the bowl and fold in half in the opposite direction. Mark the same diagonal lines 2″ in from these edges. When unfolded you should have 4 diagonal lines pointing into the center of the square.



***You will repeat these steps for the smaller bowl but measuring in only 1.5 inches in from the edges.


Fold your bowl in half again and stitch along the lines that disappear into the fold. Keeping your needle in center position, stitch along the lines, making sure to backstitch on each end.



Once the two lines are stitched, unfold the bowl and refold in the opposite direction. At this step, the bowl looks a little weird, but trust me its going to be awesome!



Stitch along the new lines that disappear into the fold, making sure to back stitch on each end.



Trim your threads and remove your marked lines.

Repeat steps for smaller bowl.




Flip your bowl right side out and press if needed.




Yay, you’re done!! Fill em’ with goodies or gift as is!


Halloween (or anytime) Bucket Tutorial!




3/4 yd of outside fabric
3/4 yd of lining fabric
1/4 yd of handle fabric
3/4 yd fusible fleece

Sublime Stitching Glow in the Dark Embroidery Thread
Embroidery needle
coordinating thread
a rotary Cutter or fabric shears
an acrylic ruler
a marking tool
glass head pins
dinner plate




Trace your around your dinner plate on the outside fabric, lining and fusible fleece,  and cut out all three circles.


Find the diameter of your circle by folding one of the fabric circles in half and measuring.  Mine is 10.5 inches.



Multiply that number by Pi (3.14).  My result is 32.97.  That is your circumference. Round it up to the nearest increment, for me that is 33 inches.
From your outside fabric, lining fabric and fusible fleece cut one piece the length of your circumference by  8″ wide.  So, mine are 33″ x 8″.

Cut your handle fabric 21″ long x 9″ wide and a piece of fusible fleece 21″ long  x 2 1/4″ wide.  Iron the fabric piece in 1/2 lengthwise.  Open it up again and press both long ends into the middle to meet your first pressing crease.





Fold in half again and press.





Open it up again and on the third space from the top, write the name of your trick or treater or something Halloween-y like “Lay off my candy!”  You can use tailor’s chalk or whatever you like to write it and don’t worry if it’s messy…it’s spookier that way!



Use your Glow in the Dark thread to embroider over the letters.



Fuse the fleece strip to the back side of your embroidery section.



Fold the handle back up and sew down both sides using the edge of your foot as your guide, or a 3/8″ seam allowance.



Put your handle aside for now.
Grab your lining fabric rectangle and the fleece and fuse that on.  With right sides together sew the short ends together with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.  Press your seam open.  You now have the inside tube of your bucket.  Do the same with your outside fabric, without the fleece, of course.


Fuse the lining circle and the circle of fleece.  Now fold your circle into fourths and press.  Mark the creases with a pin.  


Fold your tube in fourths and press.  Use the seam as one of the fourths and mark with pins.



Now pin your lining circle to your lining tube starting at the 4 points created by the creases and pins. DSC_8117Sometimes this is a bit fiddly, because you are pinning something cut on the bias (the circle) to a straight edge (the tube).  If it seems like it’s not matching up just keep re-pinning and adjusting until it works.

Now sew around that circle with a 1/2 inch seam allowance!


Repeat this process for the outside  fabric tube and circle (bottom).
Press the top edges of both tubes to the wrong side 1/2 inch.



Turn the outside right side out and insert the lining into it.

Get your handle and mark a line 2 inches in from each short end.



Insert the handles into the sides of your bucket between the lining and the outside fabric up to the line and pin.


Then pin all the way around the bucket top.


Using the edge of your foot at your guide, topstitch all the way around the bucket, making sure to keep your handles out of the way.


And voila!  You’re bucket is done!



These really do have so many uses.  I made this one without a handle.  Cute, right?



How To (Quickly) Add A Ruffle to an Apron

I was recently recruited to add ruffles to 14 aprons for my kid’s school musical.
They didn’t give  me much time so this is the quick way I did it.

Cut a strip 6.5 inches by the width of the fabric (selvedge to selvedge).
Fold and press it in 1/2 lengthwise.


Set your machine to do a basting stitch, by setting the stitch length as long as your machine allows.
On my machine the longest is 6mm.
Then use  a 1/2 inch seam allowance and sew one row of basting stitches along the raw edges of the fabric.


Make sure to leave a long tail at the end.


Stitch a second row of basting stitches using the inside of my presser foot as a guide, or a 1/8 inch seam allowance.



Separate the two top threads from the two bobbin threads and grasp these tightly.  Carefully slide your fabric toward the center, creating the ruffle.  Be careful not to break the threads as you work.


Do this from the other side as well until you have an even amount of ruffles all along the edge.

Lay the raw edge of the ruffle to bottom edge of the apron.
If the apron is already hemmed, as these were, trim it off to create less bulk.
I also took this opportunity to shorten these aprons as they are being used by kids.

On the ends, fold in the raw (short edge) of the ruffle twice and pin there.


Loosen or tighten up those ruffles until the ruffle fits the width of your apron and the ruffles are evenly distributed.



Reset your machine’s stitch length to 2.5 or 3.0 (I like a little longer stitch length to help me get over the ruffles.)

Stitch that ruffle on!


Now just stitch down the hems on the short sides of the ruffle.


Use a pinking blade or pinking shears to finish the raw edges on the wrong side of the apron.


Clip away any hanging threads, press the seam allowance up…


…and you’re done!





Mistyfuse is the bomb.com

A few months ago we started carrying Mistyfuse in the shop. Word on the street was that it’s awesome, and I am totally confirming that!

If you haven’t heard of Mistyfuse, it’s a fusible web that works great for appliqué. It’s so lightweight and thin, it won’t add any bulk into your project, but will hold strong with almost any weight of fabric you’re working with. And bonus; doesn’t gum up your needles!

I made a little banner for the shop using Mistyfuse. This project really highlights my favorite things about working with Mistyfuse.


So let’s say you wanna make your own little banner (or a cool SEW pillow like Elizabeth Hartman).

First start by printing out your text. Then trace your letters onto a piece of parchment paper (no need to reverse them!!!!) with a regular ol’ pencil (colored pencils work great too, especially on a dark fabric).



Then iron a piece of Mistyfuse to the backside of your fabric. Remember, the Mistyfuse is double sided, so you will want to use a teflon pressing sheet (or another piece of parchment paper) to protect your iron.


(check out how thin that web is!)

Once your fabric and web become one… it’s time to transfer your text.

Place your teflon sheet on your ironing board, followed by your text parchment paper (with the pencil marked side face up), then your fusey fabric (fuse side down)


Run a hot iron with no steam over the fabric


And here’s where the magic happens….


Your markings are transferred to your fabric! No need to spend time tracing a reverse image or even pinning the letters down individually.

Next; cut out your text, arrange on your background fabric, and iron to keep it all in place.


Finish by stitching around each letter with a zig zag stitch, blanket stitch, or satin stitch. You’re text will stay perfectly in place!

A Few Of Our Favorite (Free) Tutorials/Patterns

Here’s a little collection of some of our go-to free patterns and tutorials.
Crafters are such generous souls!

The Open Wide Zipper Pouch by Noodlehead.  I think we’ve all made several of these now!181210f6264111e3a4cb22000a9e0859_7

These Wrist Pincushions from Michelle Patterns.  I’ve made 4 myself!


The Glam Clam Quilt by Latifah Saafir.  This is quickly becoming a CLASSIC!


 The Modern Circle Pillow by Alissa Haight Carlton.  Use your own colors to match any decor.

main pillow

The Wonky Star Quilt Block by Janice from Better Off Thread for Sew Mama Sew


I used this tutorial over at Juicy-Bits for two of my kid’s birthday crowns.
(Warning: gratuitous photos of my kids ahead)


This simple top by A Beautiful Mess is on our to do list!


Hope you enjoy these as much as we do!



A Quickie/Quirky Overview of Longarm Quilting!

Hi everyone!  Many of you know about the awe-to-the-some Glam Clam Quilt pattern by Latifah Saafir.  I am lucky enough to be able to call her my friend and when she taught the class in my shop, I took it.  After much time and adjusting ( I just kept going and made it 10ft long so had to remove 2 rows!) I am ready to quilt this baby.

When prepping for a day of long arming, I take comfort into consideration.
I don’t want my hair hanging in my face so an updo is in order. DSC_5071

Comfortable shoes are a necessity (and it doesn’t hurt my mood at all if they’re cute too!):


I need a good, solid breakfast (notice I said GOOD, not necessarily healthy):


Now it’s time to fold into fourths and square up the quilt back.  This is especially important because if your back isn’t square, it wont roll onto the quilt rack evenly.  It also needs to be at least 4 inches bigger that your quilt top, all around.


Now pin baste your zippers onto the top and bottom of your quilt back.  It helps to have minions who will help you!
Thanks, minion Lisa



Now zip that back onto the rack and roll it on!


Lay out your batting on top of your back…


…and baste a row of stitched across the top of it with the horizontal lock on.


Line up your quilt top with that basting line and baste the top on.


Choose a thread color!  I chose the super neutral one on the left, Isacord in Straw.


Wind a bunch o bobbins and thread up!


We like to use gauges to check tension before we start.


Do a little practice doodling and decide on your quilting design.  I’m a terrible doodler so don’t judge me!


I decided to go with organic smaller scallops.


Get a minion to bring you coffee! Thanks, minion Julia!


Get your booty stitchin’!


About midway through, get more of this:


Stitch a lot more…


…and few hours later, you’re done!  Unzip your quilt, trim it, take pics,



And do a happy dance!


Happy quilting!



Perfect Fit Binding Video Tutorial

Check out our new video tutorial! Learn an easy way to finish the ends of your binding with a perfect fit every time! This method is great for any width binding.

That’s What She Sewed…

We’re really excited to post the first of our video tutorial series; That’s What She Sewed!


First up, Napkins!!! We’ve got a super simple technique that gives you perfect mitered corners! And the best part? It’s quick and easy!





 Check it out and let us know what you think!



Psst.. We used some Flea Market Fancy for our napkins, don’t miss out on these awesome reprints. Get em here!

Fabric Ball Tutorial

Liz and I made these fabric balls to hang in the store window.  It's very simple to do but it does take awhile and uses a good amount of fabric.  We used Robert Kaufman Kona cottons in 2 shades of the same color for each ball.  


Here are the tools you need: styrofoam balls in varying sizes. For this tutorial we used a medium sized one.  We used about 2 yards of fabric in total. You need a rotary cutter fitted with a pinking blade or pinking shears. You also need a hot glue gun, a good amount of glue sticks and some fishing line to hang the ball with.  Groovy tunes  are optional.


Cut your fabric into 4" strips and then into 4" squares using your pinking blade.




Fold one of your squares into a petal shape:



Place a good sized dot of hot glue on the ball:


Place the end of the petal in the glue and hold for a few seconds:


Repeat with a square in the second shade:


Keep alternating squares and gluing:


until your ball is full and has no bald spots!


Get your fishing line and tie it around the ball like ribbon on a present:



Tie a knot in the fishing line and fluff the fabric around the fishing line:


Hang your ball!  (We used hooks that screw into the ceiling)